Game Rules – Mini Skirts

Dior (2022) https://www.dior.com/en_gb/womens-fashion/ready-to-wear-shows/folder-pret-a-porter-printemps-ete-2022/inspirations-looks

A choreography of models moving rhythmically along a playful runway. Bold and vibrant colours imaginatively set the scene for a collection based upon games and celebration. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring/Summer 22 collection for Dior consisted of modern brightly coloured suits, reinventing the classic Dior silhouettes. The Slim Look collection presented in 1961 was the source for inspiration. Consisting of colour blocking, 60s mini skirts and nods to the 20’s with flapper inspired evening wear; the collection created a dreamworld for nostalgia and celebrated freedom, playing tribute to Calabrian artist Anna Paparatti.

A lively runway set comprised of a retro roulette board. Neon tones entwined through the garments, complimented by pink, green, orange, and yellow steps, contrasting against a black canvas. Paparatti said in an interview for Harper’s Bazaar “I find that colours explode and sing on a black background” Colourful suits and mini skirts, a mixture of strong colours and silhouettes personified happiness and joyfulness, reflective of the excitement for a summer of freedom. 

Dior invented the see-sawing of hemlines, moving them either up or down, alternating between seasons to initiate change. The 60s introduced and popularised the acceptance of miniskirts for symbolising a change in societal dynamics and a revolutionary era of political youth movements. Dating back to 63’ it appears for the first time in the window of the London shop Bazaar, by British designer Mary Quant. At first they were squared, simple and clean cut, starting out 6 or 7 inches above the knee. They needed to be practical for the new working woman. Women required the freedom of movement, and overtime they were experimented with to become increasingly shorter, reflective of changing lifestyles and morals.

Fashion icons of the time including Jackie Kennedy and Twiggy wore the mini skirt invariably, the trend elevated because it was so different and controversial. John Bates was one of the most influential British designers and should be credited for the rise in popularity of the mini skirt. The 60s attitudes to fashion were fast moving, the mini skirt is iconic for symbolising this exciting time. The 70’s and 80s was a time of independence, Vogue announced “There are no rules of the fashion game now. You’re playing it and you make up the game as you go.” However, the 70s was popular for colour blocking, injecting inspiration into Chiuri’s collection.

The slim look of 61’ inspired the short, brightly coloured, mix and match of materials with sharp structures. Chiuri’s collection was reinvented from the past, using contemporary methods of fashion engineering, creating techno satins from recycled materials. The mini skirt throughout its history is reflective of freedom. The collaboration reflected fun through the game’s element with aspects of seriousness through powerful shapes and silhouettes. The collection is reinventing the mini skirt for modern liberated consumers who are free to express their individuality. 

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